Writing thoughtful patterns
Designing a pattern is a skill, whether it’s for a multi-sized garment, a single-sized accessory or a three-dimensional object. Translating those designs into a written pattern is another kettle of fish entirely.
There are myriad ways to write a knitting or crochet pattern. Yes, there are conventions, some of which are useful, others less so, but how you convey your intent to the maker in a way that is concise, clear and correct is a matter of preference. I have some clients who like to make sure the pattern contains every bit of information the maker might need, from techniques to modifications; others want to make sure their patterns include ways for the maker to chart their progress through the pattern; some simply want to convey instructions concisely, and rely on the maker’s experience and curiosity to work through things that might be more challenging. All of these approaches are valid, and as long as the pattern instructions are accurate and intelligible, whether the style vexes or delights is a matter of the end user’s personal preference.
That said, just like our society and the language we use, makers’ expectations of patterns are ever-changing; it’s important to keep in mind who your end user might be and what might exclude them from making your pattern. Some things to consider are:
size range: makers come in all shapes and sizes, and providing a limited range of sizes is like putting a big red sign on your designer door saying, ‘no fat people'. Makers who are fat should not be excluded from making clothes that they love, and those designs should be thoughtfully graded, with the intended fit of the garment in mind. When I grade patterns I usually recommend providing sizes from a full chest circumference of around 30 inches to at least 62 inches, preferably 67. More patterns are size inclusive than ever before, which is great, but we have a long way to go. The wonderful Autumn Eden-Goodman has a repository of size-inclusive designers and patterns, and provides resources for designers who want to expand their size range.
experience: as a beginner I remember being flummoxed by the concept of ease (the difference between the body measurements and the garment measurements), and how to work out what size I should make; providing detailed information on ease or, even better, pictures including information on the garment/model, can make or break a decision to try the pattern. Another way to support the less experienced is to provide links to technique tutorials or step-by-step instructions for more complex techniques.
diverse abilities: some makers find it difficult to follow a multi-sized pattern that doesn’t have clear differentiation between size numbers, for example, or if certain colours are used for that differentiation; some find it hard to follow a chart but are fine with written instructions, and vice versa – providing both is helpful. Instructions that are vague (‘decrease 11 stitches evenly on the next row’, or ‘work last 2 rows for 8 rows’) can confound people with dyscalculia or dyslexia (and people without, too).
gendered language: whether or not you believe that gender is binary (for the record, I do not, and there is an enormous amount of evidence to support the idea that it is a spectrum), using gendered language can exclude and alienate people who might want to make your inspired creation. I very much dislike, for example, being told which side of my cardigans I should put my button-band on based on my possession of a uterus. A much more helpful and thoughtful instruction would be ‘apply your button-band to the left or right side according to preference’. It’s also unwise to assume that someone making a garment designed with a male wearer in mind is doing it for ‘the man in their life’.
This list isn’t exhaustive, but it can be hard to put yourself in someone else’s shoes. Making a checklist of things that you might want to consider when writing your pattern instructions is a really good way to make sure your designs work for people who want to make them. Doing this can provide a different perspective on the process pattern writing and you might find it makes some aspects of it easier.
Alternatively, you could hire a pattern writer (or someone to help you with the sticky bits). Contact me for a chat here.
